Sometimes the ‘forgotten Country’ of South East Asia, Laos is moving to luxury, while retaining the best of its heritage.
People take their time in Luang Prebang. They become seduced by its languid pace, wandering the colourful streets in the afternoon heat, filled with the scent of heavy trees and frangipani, and the hum of cicadas.
This small, enchanting town, encircled by green mountains swathed in cloud, has remained untouched by the ravages of war, disease and Communism which struck the rest of Laos, forgotten country of south East Asia. Far up the winding Mekong and lost in the mists of time, Luang Prebang is the centre of Buddhism and a former Royal residence.
There is a meeting of two cultures here, one of golden temples, 300 saffron clad monks who seem to float through the narrow lanes and rickety wooden dwellings, and the other of French Indochina, lemon coloured colonial houses, café au lait and Parisian food.
The best hotel in town, La Residence Phou Vao, blends them together seamlessly and has an airy elegance, with whirring ceiling fans, shiny teak floors and breathtaking views across the swimming pool to the golden temple in the clouds. We stayed in Mick Jagger’s favourite room, and he does have impeccable taste. As I wallowed in the big green pebble bath I couldn’t help thinking that Mick had soaked there too.
At night the town is lit up like a dream. The main street becomes a pedestrian market of local crafts, and the numerous bars and restaurants glow like genies of the night. The Blue Lagoon is a must, sitting in the courtyard under the banana trees with soft jazz floating on the breeze and its mouth-watering food.
A bit more formal is the 3 Nagas where French chef, Sebastian made us bamboo soup and delicious Bouillabaisse. After a lazy morning on our bikes we stopped for lunch at Apsara opposite the Khan River, and savoured typical Laotian dishes laden with herbs, and then tried to fit more in at the tiny, quaint Tamarind restaurant that night. La Residence has its own magical dinner on the terrace amongst the candles with the orange lights of Phou Si Temple smouldering in the distance.
The hotel took us up the snaking Mekong on their mahogany slow boat, under a panama hat, with butler and three course hamper. They set up lunch on a sandbank under an umbrella, where we almost expected Somerset Maugham to be carried in on a litter. Jon Swain wrote in River of Time, about Indochina: "There is something about the Mekong which, even years later, makes me want to sit down beside it and watch my whole life go by." To me that describes the power of Luang Prebang, and how it seeps under your skin.
Coming away from somewhere so remote and untouched could be a terrific jolt. But not if you’re going to Rayavadee, Land of the Princess, on the Andaman Sea. The power of this resort lies in the landscape, with its three beaches, giant prehistoric rock formations and exotic jungle. Just an hour’s flight from Bangkok, outside Krabi, it can only be reached by boat, which adds to its mystique and other worldliness.
Even having your morning wash in the villa becomes other worldly here. I looked up to see a small monkey staring in from the almond tree cleaning himself at the same time as I was, with not a lot of difference between us, apart from the fleas.
Early mornings we walked along the winding paths under swaying flame trees and towering palms to swim in the 41 metre pool at Railey Beach, with its trompe l’oeil border that makes you feel you’re heading straight out to sea. Towels waiting, a buggy to take you back, and lavish breakfast gazing at the sun dappled ocean, this really is paradise. The warm, attentive staff make you feel so special you’re in danger of believing you really are a film star and they’re waiting for your autograph, not just another signature on the bar bill.
We were drawn back night after night to the exotic, intensely romantic Thai restaurant above Phra Nang Beach, and its superb chef. The walk home to the villa along the soft white sand with crabs scuttling about, the glow of the moon on foamy waves, and no one else there, is one of those moments in time that makes you joyful to be alive.
It’s very hard to leave this special place, its glorious spa, speed boats to take you snorkelling in faraway bays, and lovely staff, I wondered whether to stay longer instead of going on to Bangkok. But arriving at the Peninsula Hotel on Bangkok’s Chao Praya River, coolly elegant, with spectacular views of the city, I started to accept that there is life outside Rayavadee.
It’s hot and steamy in this city. I’d covered myself in Green People sun lotion by breakfast time, especially at the Peninsula where they do breakfast with such panache you’re bound to take your time.
James Tailor is the place for a well-cut new wardrobe, and the best for Thai food is Bo.Lan where the chef is rediscovering traditional Thai recipes in an atmospheric Thai house, or Nahm just opened by Michelin chef David Thompson, or the Peninsula's Thiptara on the river in airy wooden Thai pavilions.
For breathtaking views of the city the Banyan Tree’s Vertigo is 63 floors up in the clouds, with its superb spa, and Lebua has a kaleidoscopic Sky Bar come space ship. Eva Air was our next space ship, because that terrible last day always comes. But my goodness that airline is good, and it makes the pain of leaving all the rainbow hues of South East Asia just about bearable, until next year that is.
EVA Air
flies non-stop daily from London Heathrow to Bangkok with an elite service. Contact them on 0207 380 8300.
Audley Travel
are specialists in tailor made itineraries and cultural tours to the Far East.
By Sharon Feinstein
